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The Chinese seasonings of garlic, scallions and onions,
fresh ginger root and soy sauce are all part of Vietnamese cookery. But
what makes the cuisine most distinctive is the addition of two special
condiment sauces used both in cookery and at the table : nuoc mam and
nuoc cham. These two sauces represent the essence of what separates
Vietnamese cookery from most other eastern cookery. Nuoc mam is the
liquid that is produced from layered slated fish which has been allowed
to ferment in barrels. Almost equally important is nuoc cham. Every cook
has a special recipe for the addition of fiery spices and pungent
flavors to the basic nuoc mam. Garlic and onions, chili peppers, black
pepper, cayenne, sugar, citrus juices, coconut juice and vinegar may all
be a part of the final fiery hot combination. Both of these sauces are
used as ingredients in many other dishes - almost the way westerners use
salt and pepper - or as added sauces or condiments for dipping savory
mouthfuls.
The delicate flavors of coconut and lemon grass also
permeate many Vietnamese dishes. Roasted peanuts, crushed or chopped,
add a special flavor to many sauces.
For the Vietnamese, fragrant fresh herbs are eaten in
such quantities as to be considered part of the daily vegetable intake
as well as seasoning prepared foods in typically Vietnamese ways: for
example, mint leaves and fresh coriander accompanying grilled beef;
fresh dill and green onions used in fish cookery; bean sprouts, fresh
coriander, slivered hot chilies and lime added to
pho bo (beef noodle soup); fresh ginger, lemon grass, garlic and
green onions with a sprinkle of brown sugar added to a boned chicken
dish.
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